COFFEESHOPS

ABRAXAS Quite possibly my favourite coffeeshop in town. It's a small, three-level, glass-floored coffeeshop in the heart of where all the trendy clubs/bar are (near Dam Square). As well as the regular hash and grass, they also do space cakes, shakes and cannabis tea; they have two internet terminals; and DJs play occasionally. Jonge Roelensteeg 12-14 (625 5763)

AMNESIA The Amnesia has a certain 'home from home' boudoir charm. Their refined menu is unlike most other coffeeshops in Amsterdam ­ offering more non-commercial varieties. There's also a chess table to challenge your powers of concentration. Herengracht 133

BARNEY'S This psychedelic cavern is a real ex-pats hang out from the music right down to the tabloids and Lea & Perrins/HP Sauce. The perfect hangover cure: huge greasy breakfast and a joint. They also offer vegan and vegetarian breakfasts! A five minute walk from Centraal Station, you could do worse for that first (or last) toke in Amsterdam. They open at the staggeringly early time of 7am (and close 20.00). Additionally, weed is 100% organic and a few doors away on the corner, at No 98, is Barney's Brasserie which also serves hearty meals, plus alcohol. They don't trade in cannabis, however, but you're welcome to smoke it there. Haarlemmerstraat (6259761) www.barneys-amsterdam.com

DE DAMPKRING Dampkring has the same stock as the Tweede Kamer (reputed for its wide range of imported grass) but the focus here is on the hash. A chilled respite from the hectically busy Kalverstraat behind.Scenes from Ocean's Twelve (starring Brad Pitt and George Clooney were filmed her in spring 2004 and apparently, it's one of Pitt's favourite joints (he owns a house in Amsterdam). And, unashamedly cashing in, they even have Ocean's Twelve Haze on the menu.) Don't miss their cat Bowie ­ he's quite a legend. Handboogstraat 29 (6380705)

GREENHOUSE A beautiful, multi-coloured interior, like the other two Greenhouses at Waterlooplein 345 and Tolstraat 91 (the latter is a members-only club). The menu is a real delight for the connoisseur (can be quite expensive but they will happily do small deals), plus they also serve alcohol and always sweep the awards at the annual High Times Cannabis Cup. Oudezijds Voorburgwal 191 (6271739) www.greenhouse.org

GREENHOUSE EFFECT A small but hip joint with a nice buzz. Right nextdoor is their bar (with hotel above) that's also lively and serves some wickedly named cocktails to recall those Ibiza days - 'sex on the beach' and 'cream in your pants'... Also nextdoor is the best gay bar in town, Getto, a home from home when it comes to cocktail happy hour. Warmoesstraat 53 (6237462)

GREY AREA The joint venture of two wacky Americans, Grey Area is small but has a big reputation. They sell top-quality weed (their AK-47 hits the bullseye and they're also particularly proud of their Bubblegum and Grey strains). They're also the only place in town to offer free refills of organic coffee (not a common thing in this town). Just a few doors away is Foodism. Perfect for when the munchies pangs kick in. Oude Leliestraat 2 (420 4201) www.greyarea.nl

HILL STREET BLUES It's long, loungey and chilled, has an international vibe, a more-hash-for-your-cash menu and a small terrace overlooking the bustling Nieuwmarkt square. They also make some wicked fruit smoothies and shakes (ideal for those munchies), and sell a discerning array of space cookies, space truffles and marijuana tea. Their other, more established, branch at Warmoesstraat 52 (638 7922), additionally serves alcohol (with a daily happy hour from 6-9pm), has a pool table and table football ­ but is invariably more hectic. It does ooze street cred, however: it's a favourite of Irvine Welsh, bestselling author of Trainspotting (he even mentioned it in the sequel, Porno). Nieuwmarkt 14 www.hill-street-blues.nl

HOMEGROWN FANTASY Fantastic Dutch-grown grass menu, unusually charismatic staff, and nice mix of tunes. Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 87a (627 5683)

KADINSKY Since having to wait 20 minutes just for a cup of coffee I went back and now I love the place. Great connoisseurs hash/grass menus (they do small deals too). Plus one day in every eight they offer a 20% discount... Rozemarijnsteeg 9 (624 7023)

KASHMIR LOUNGE A little out of the centre but near the Vondelpark makes deals her a little cheaper. It's a great place to smoke away a rainy afternoon and chill out on cushions but in the evening it can get quite packed, with DJs spinning upbeat lounge over the weekends (sometimes a bit too loudly and noone wants to yell over the music when they're chilling out...) Jan Pieter Heijestraat 85-87 (683 2268)

PARADOX When compared to the proliferation of dingy coffeeshops that dominates much of Amsterdam, Paradox certainly lives up to its name. A bright, characterful contradiction, it serves healthy food, fruit shakes and fresh fruit/vegetable juices on top of all the usual dope (though if you're feeling peckish, it's worth remembering that the kitchen shuts at 3pm). Comfortable and cosy, it's ideal for a deep-and-meaningful ­ and you could probably bring your mum here, too. Eerste Bloemdwarsstraat 2 (623 5639) www.paradoxamsterdam.demon.nl

ROKERIJ Chill out in Aladdin's cave (but only in the afternoons - it does get pretty packed at nights/weekends). A beautiful haven and find off the otherwise tacky Leidseplein. Also other as equally aesthetic - though smaller - ROKERIJS at Amstel 8, Singel 8 and Elandsgracht 53. Lange Leidsedwarsstraat 41 (622 9442)

RUSLAND 'Russia' claims to be the first (legal) coffeeshop in Amsterdam and has been welcoming comrades for over 30 years on the street of the same name. Unsurprisingly perhaps, they have a Russian theme throughout, a variety of levels, plus cosy nooks and crannies. They sell a whopping 39 different types of tea, spacecake and fresh juices (including their renowned Vitamin Cocktail). When they're not playing hard trance or house it can be particularly pleasant. Rusland 16 (627 9648)

SAMEMENTERENG If you're after a strange experience on a par with one of Mr Benn's visits to the fancy dress shop, then pop into Samenentereng, ostensibly a bric-a-brac store crammed to the nines with both brac and bric. However, tucked at the back is an unusual African hut-style coffeeshop-cum-conservatory, complete with reggae, rastas and table football. Definitely worth a ganja. Tweede Laurierdwarsstraat 44 (624 1907)

SIBERIË The friendly and mellow Siberië has regular free horoscope readings, open mic nights and exhibitions; DJs spin at weekends, too. They also have a computer with internet access and plenty of board games to while away any rainy day. With good reason, they boast of the best coffee in town (it's also cheap at just €1.35; tea is €1.15). The same owners run the small but modern De Supermarkt (Frederik Hendrikstraat 69, 486 2479 www.desupermarkt.net) and well-established neighbourhood coffeeshop De Republiek (2e Nassaustraat 1a, 682 8431 www.republiek.nl), both just west of the Jordaan. Brouwersgracht 11 (623 5909) www.siberie.nl

T-BOAT Sadly, this coffeeshop on a boat by the Waterlooplein where you could catch the last of the suns rays as you puffed on your joint appears to have been closed down. Watch this space for more details. Oudeschans 143 (423 3799)

LA TERTULIA This is where Michelle was filmed for 'Eastenders' when she tried her first joint. Years ago now. A long-established, split-level coffeeshop, La Tertulia has a great bio menu. Inside, it's bright and airy; weed brownies are served at the sunken counter and there's a miniature garden, complete with fountain. In summer, the canalside terrace is a peaceful place to spliff up and do a spot of people-watching. Prinsengracht 312

YO-YO A popular neighbourhood coffeeshop situated out in the Pijp, Yo-Yo is spacious and aesthetic. The atmosphere is intrinsically mellow all day, and the weed is organic. Don't leave without trying Helga's home-made apple pie. 2e Jan van der Heydenstraat 79 (664 7173)

© 2005 Pip Farquharson