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For years Amsterdam has proved quite a disappointment to both lesbian visitors to the city and those who live here. While the men's gay scene has always provoked a kids- in-a-candy-store reaction, there has been an absolute dearth of lesbian bars and activities. There are just three women's bars (all welcoming to men), and the occasional one-off women's parties... |
SAAREIN II
Elandsstraat 119 (6234901)
Open Tue-Fri, Sun 16.00-01.00, Sat 12.00-02.00
www.saarein.nl
As I was only 12 at the time (with a huge crush on Elvis, and Beryl Reid's character in The Killing of Sister George the only lesbian I'd heard of) I can't really comment... but my guess is that by the time Amsterdam's infamous women's bar closed in 1999, it hadn't changed too much since it opened 20 years earlier in 1978. Happily however, this formerly women-only establishment was taken over, revamped and reopened as a mixed gay and lesbian bar. It still retains its split-level, brown-bar charm, as well as a predominantly lesbian clientèle – and the infamous pool table remains! However, if anyone wants to have a whip-round to pay for new seats for the toilets, I will be very happy.
SAPPHO
Vijzelstraat 103 (423 1509)
Tue-Thu, Sun 11.00-01.00 Fri, Sat 11.00-03.00
www.sappho.nl
After a renovation and a little tête à tête with the tax man, this arty café bar has reopened after being shut for a few months. Hurrah! I love its new look. It's more like a little club. Check out their website for their programme – singersongwriter nights/theater nights and the infamous womens' night on Fridays.
VIVE LA VIE
Amstelstraat 7 (6240114)
Mon-Thu, Sun 14.30-01.00 Fri, Sat 15.00-03.00
If you want to rub shoulders with the younger chic lesbians... then you can't literally can't help it here in this tiny - but lively - space on the edge of the Rembrandtplein. Every Saturday is a subtle singles night from 23.00 and every first Thursday of the month is over-35s night.
There is just one women-only club in Amsterdam YOU II (see below). I would say this was 'progress' (a couple of years ago there wasn't even one) if it wasn't such a tacky joint. For a start it advertises itself for 'bi-het-les ladies' (get the picture?). Still… can be fun if you're in the mood... (and they did kindly look for my hat and sunglasses I lost there after I got trashed one night).
Apart from that there are one-off nights held in various venues: Sappho on Fridays and De Trut (mixed) on Sundays.
Occasional women's parties are:
Flirtation which takes place every two or three months at Panama.
Girlesque held now and then, usually at the Sugar Factory.
In Real Life held every third Sunday of the month (except July, August) between 16.00-21.00 at the University's Crea Café.
Garbo held every first Saturday of the month at cool urban beach, Strand West.
Hot Peper held um... 'now and then' at OT301 (Overtoom 301).Check their websites before heading out the door and also see What'sOn for current information.
Also check out the new Amsterdam-based English-language Lesbian/Bisexual mailing list: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/lbexpatamsterdam
EASTERN BATHHOUSE HAMMAM
Zaanstraat 88 (6814818)
Tue-Fri 12.00-22.00, Sat, Sun noon-20.00pm (Closed in August)
Your intrepid writer hasn't yet visited this women-only sauna but has soaked up a number of rumours, including that you have to keep your undies on (a cultural thang...). As well as getting steamy Eastern-style you can also splash out for a scrub or massage. It is (apparently) quite relaxed, and munchies are available should you build up an appetite from doing... absolutely nothing.
FENOMEEN
Eerste Schinkelstraat 14 (6716780)
Mon 13.00-23.00
This is a unique 'must'. Situated in a former squat at the bottom of the Vondelpark, Fenomeen retains its alternative, rootsy feel: a cheap bar serves organic juices and herbal teas, as well as delicious wholefood snacks. Music played generally ranges from ambient to jungle, depending on whose working the bar, and contributes to the highly relaxed atmosphere. Facilities include a Turkish bath, a cold bath, a chill-out room with mattresses, and a shower (in the courtyard outside). Extras include a massage, sunbed or a float in the relaxation tanks. What's more it's often full of lesbians on this women-only day chilling-out after yet another thrilling weekend on the dyke scene. N.B: It's also open throughout the rest of the week but has 'mixed' and 'non-smoking' days etc.
Lesbian-specific sport organisations exist for cycling (Eerste Lesbische Fietsclub) and hiking (Potige Dames). If you don't mind hanging out with the gay boys, there's also mixed-gender organizations for queer running, swimming, squash, karate, diving, bridge, sailing, dancing, tennis, and volleyball.
For a list, see: www.ihlia.nl/english/offsite_links/Sport
VROLIJK
Paleisstraat 135 (6235142) www.vrolijk.nu
Mon 13.00-18.00, Tue, Wed, Fri 10.00-18.00, Thu 10.00-21.00, Sat 10.00-18.00
Modern, well-stocked and friendly gay and lesbian bookstore. Also has DVDs, t-shirts, postcards, CDs etc.
Yep, you've guessed it - there are no lesbian hotels. However, Amsterdam's gay hotels, of which there are several, are all lesbian-friendly. In fact most of the city's hotels shouldn't be too phased by a lesbian couple booking a double room - not least because it's against the law to refuse accommodation to gays or lesbians. Alternatively, there is a women-only guesthouse and a woman-run 'B&B' (listed below). For the latest possibilities on lesbian acommodation in the city phone the Gay & Lesbian Switchboard on 623 6565. Don't phone me.
TINEKE'S & MARY'S
Overtoom 73
Enjoy Dutch hospitality in a private apartment (own key), on the first floor of a typical Amsterdam house in a great location. Near the Vondelpark, it's less than 5 mins walking distance from the city centre, Leidseplein, ring of canals, museums, red light and gay district (also easy access to public transportation). Apartment consists of a bedroom with large double bed and TV (linen included), with roof-garden view. Recently-renovated private bathroom with toilet & shower (towels included), adjoining room with TV, microwave oven, fridge with soft drinks, various snacks/breakfast supplies and coffee/tea corner. (There's also the possibility to place an extra single – or double – bed in this room.) Any other services upon request (we – a lesbian couple – live nextdoor). €80 per night (1-2 persons)/€120 per night (3-4 persons) and discounted rates for longer stays. For reservations email Tineke & Mary at: wrob@wanadoo.nl
LILIANE'S HOME
Sarphatistraat 119 (6274006)
This rather posh 'Herenhuys' situated in a gay-friendly Jewish neighbourhood offers accommodation exclusively to women. Only on two days during the year are gay boys allowed in - on Queen's Day and New Year's Eve - owing to a lack of lesbian clientèle on these festive days (hey, what's new…?). Prices of rooms vary depending on size and whether they have a private bathroom etc. but cost on average €50-85 (single), €80 (double), €100 (double with private bathroom, balcony and kitchen). Threesomes (I mean triples) are also possible. A Dutch-style breakfast served between 09.00-10.00 is included in the price, as well as unlimited tea and coffee throughout the day. Other facilities include car parking at a cost of €15 a night (but you must phone ahead to reserve), a shared living room and a balcony (where smoking is permitted: note that rooms are non-smoking). Public transport from outside the front door takes you into the centre of town in 10 minutes.
Although the dyke that the little Dutch boy stuck his finger in is probably the most famous one in The Netherlands (apart perhaps from legendary singer Mathilde Santing) the country nonetheless has a fascinating lesbian history. From the witch hunting epidemic that broke out across Europe in the mid-century ('unmarried women' were often made scape-goats for the occurence of all sorts of disasters) to transvestism, tribadism and the latter-day witch hunts during the Nazi occupation of Amsterdam in the Second World War.
Unlike gay men, who were persecuted heavily (and even executed) for 'sodomy' during the Calvinist 17th and 18th centuries, lesbians in Amsterdam were able to remain relatively invisible, concealing their relationships under the guise of 'romantic friendships'. They were prosecuted but mainly for transvestism (there are several documented cases of women cross-dressing so they could marry another woman, or secure work as soldiers and sailors). Their punishment usually consisted of being sentenced to stays of up to 12 years in a 'correction house' along with prostitutes, beggars and thieves; in other words the 'dregs of society'. Only one lesbian, Bartha Schuurman, is known to have been executed (in 1792) and that was for murder. Schuurman lived together with Bets Wiebes. When Wiebes started a relationship with Catharina de Haan, the jealous Schuurman knifed De Haan to death. Wiebes was banished from Amsterdam for six years for practicing 'vile lust', whilst Schuurman was hung from the gallows. It was, in fact, only at the end of the 18th century that women were arrested for having lesbian relationships.
During the 19th century attitudes changed when the 1811 penal code restricted punishable offences to the seduction of minors and violation of public decency; 'homosexuality' was openly debated within a scientific context; and increased emancipation at the end of the 19th century generally made life easier for lesbians. However, Article 248bis - raising the age of consent from 16 to 21 - was introduced in 1911, and once again it became hard to be openly gay or lesbian. Older women who had relationships with under-age girls were followed by the vice squad and this, inevitably, pushed gays and lesbians underground. During the Second World War, however, the gay community gained a lot of respect through their courage in the face of Nazi persecution. One such figure to emerge as a certain hero during occupied Amsterdam was the openly lesbian, leather-clad biker, Bet van Beeren. Born in 1902, she opened the bar 'Het Mandje', in 1927, on the notoriously rough Zeedijk, in the Red Light District. As well as concealing weapons from the enemy she was also known to have sheltered Jews, including writer Hermijn Heijermans. After her death in 1967, her sister continued to run the bar but had to close it a few years later due to ill health. Today Zeedijk 63 still remains closed but serves as a shrine to the 'Queen of the Zeedijk' with its windows full of photos of Bet, her friends and other memorabilia. It was, however, opened for a short, nostalgic period during the 1998 Gay Games.
Following the war, the Shakespeare Club - which later became the COC - opened in 1946, originally serving as a social club. Today, with branches all over the Netherlands and the head office in Amsterdam, it has both social and activist functions. Lesbian involvement was minimal in the earlier years of the COC and it wasn't apparently until the beginning of the sixties - and the sexual revolution - that activies were organised for women. The sexual revolution of the 60s greatly furthered the gay and lesbian cause and in 1971 Article 248bis was abolished. In the 70s, various radical lesbian activist groups were formed including 'Purple September' who succesfully protested at the male domination of the COC, and 'Lesbian Nation' who organised actions, demonstrations and festivals. In an attempt to raise lesbian awareness they even plastered the city with such slogans as 'better lesbian', 'love Amsterdam lesbos' and (my personal favourite) 'the witches are back'. Emerging from this radical lesbian era were a number of women's cafés, bookshops, publishing houses and squats, several of which have survived in some form or other today (such as the Saarein and Xantippe Unlimited). On the whole, today's Dutch lesbians lack the energy or iniative of their more radical counterparts from previous decades, but rather, seem almost complacent towards the handful of rights they now enjoy. Maybe they are simply unaware of the struggles that have gone on before. Or too busy shagging.
There is currently no lesbian tour of Amsterdam. However, if you hook up with a Dutch woman then it is worth buying Op de Lesbische Tour in Amsterdam by Jeannette Nijboer. The book includes three walking tours, one bicycle tour, two pedalo tours and one boat tour plus maps and archive photographs. Apart from fascinating snippets such as how Anne Frank wrote an erotic lesbian passage in her diary, it seems most lesbian history in the city centred around bars, brawls and bonking. A bit like today really.
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